I explored another corner of Northern Vietnam which was a day trip to Ninh Binh, located about two hours away by road from the capital city of Hanoi. Ninh Binh is the perfect destination to escape the crowds as it is not so well-known (not yet) and to enjoy the serene countryside of Vietnam.
When I arrived, I saw how relaxing the ambience was, with tourists riding bicycles or scooters and walking around leisurely – without any traffic! The air is fresh and crisp. I can hear the cicadas ‘singing’ very loudly up in the surrounding trees. My guide told me that the cicadas’ singing marks the start of the summer season in May and children get very excited as the summer holidays are just around the corner.
One of Ninh Binh’s star attractions is the paddleboat ride in Tam Coc that meanders through calm waterways bordered by rice fields and majestic limestone cliffs, passing through ancient caves. Ninh Binh is often called “Ha Long Bay on land” due to its similar landscape of limestone karsts rising from the water, but in this case, from rice paddies and rivers unlike limestone islands at Ha Long Bay.
It features sampan rides where paddlers use the distinctive, ingenious ‘foot rowing’ technique that was developed to lessen strain on their hands, arms and backs. Each sampan can accommodate up to four adults.
I had the sampan all to myself and was very pleased that my rower was a smiling middle-aged lady. I sat back and relaxed as our sampan glided through breathtaking scenery of the surrounding landscape of rice fields, forested hills and jagged limestone cliffs.
We also passed under bridges, cruised by temples and riverside cafes. The boat ride took approximately one and a half hours and it was pure bliss though it was on extremely hot day at 35 degrees C.
The highlight of the boat tour is a set of three dramatic limestone caves in which the boat glides through, expertly maneuvered by the paddler. Tam Coc aptly translates to “three caves”.
- Ca Cave: This is the longest among the three caves, stretching approximately 127m. The air inside the cave is pleasantly cool, and the many hanging stalactites in various captivating shapes were jaw-dropping.
- Hai Cave: After traveling 1 km from the first cave, we arrived at this second cave. Slightly shorter than the first cave, it spans around 60m. It features stalactites and stalagmites that have endured the test of time for thousands of years.
- Ba Cave: Located at the end of the journey, Ba Cave boasts a narrow ceiling, which adds an intriguing factor to this already captivating experience. I had to duck in some areas but my paddler is amazing on how she maneuvered the sampan to avoid the stalactites which were hanging from the ceiling in stunning ways.
Here are some useful tips for the boat trip.
- Get there early in the morning. I had arrived at 11am and when I finished my tour at 12.30pm, I was drenched in sweat from the hot mid-day sun, which was in mid-May. You may wish to consider visiting before May or after August to avoid the extreme heat
- Bring a hat and wear plenty of sunscreen. You may also wish to bring a small foldable umbrella.
- Bring bottled water so that you do not get dehydrated as the boat tour can take up to two hours.
- Wear a life jacket throughout the boat tour – collect it at the entrance before you step on the sampan.
- Do not rock the boat or stand up to avoid falling into the water. Hold on to your bag.
- Do not touch the stalactites and stalagmites in the caves. They are delicate mineral formations that take thousands of years to grow. Touching them can cause physical damage, such as breaking or chipping, which can hinder their growth and alter the cave’s natural beauty.
- Please give a tip to your boat paddler, consider a tip 100,000 VND (about US$3.80) or more.
Since I was only going to Ninh Binh for a day trip, I only had the opportunity to visit one other nearby attraction which is the ancient ruins of Hoa Lu, the first capital of Vietnam built in the year 968 by King Dinh Bo Linh who ruled until 980. The Kingdom at that time, paid tributes to China and so you can see a lot of Chinese influence in the architectural styles.
Hoa Lu stood as the capital for 31 years until 1010 when the capital was moved to Ha Noi and Hoa Lu became a historical landmark with three main temples or shrines and serene gardens with lakes.
The King’s Dragon Bed, which is one of two royal stone beds that the king sat on whilst receiving emissaries from China, are significant historical artifacts engraved with dragon reliefs.
Ha Long Bay
From Ninh Binh, I returned to Hanoi for the night. The next morning, I travelled by road for two hours to Ha Long Bay for a one-night cruise.
Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is famous for its limestone islands in varying shapes. I visited during the low peak season in May. Foreign tourists usually visit from October to April and June to August is the peak for locals who bring their families to cruise during the summer vacation. Two-night cruises will be offered then. There are also day tours available when you do not have to spend the night at sea.
My junk had 15 passengers including me and we took up 8 out of 24 cabins. There were more staff than passengers, which was good for us but not the operator, which meant less revenue.
I had a very nice cabin with Oriental-inspired decor. It has 24 cabins, there were only 15 passengers including me so there were more staff than guests, and it also meant more privacy.
The junk then stopped sailing in the mid-afternoon and guests can once again take the tender boat to visit a cave nearby and then go swimming or kayaking for a few hours. I opted to stay onboard for a massage instead at the small spa onboard, and then enjoying the sunset views on the terrace. The boat then stayed in the middle of the bay for the night – there was no WIFI and no TV signal transmission, but roaming was available if you have a package or plan.
Tai Chi lessons are offered the next morning at 6am when the engine is switched at full throttle for the journey back to the harbour so that was my morning call! A visit to the local fishermen’s village is also offered but it was raining and I did not go for the tour.
I must say that the most enjoyable part of this cruise was the extremely delicious meals that were served onboard. The ingredients of the meals were so fresh and delectable, having come from the surrounding sea and farms. I will write more on Vietnamese cuisine next time.
While both Ninh Binh and Ha Long Bay offer breathtaking cave systems, Ha Long Bay is characterised by its emerald waters (on good days) and numerous islands rising from the sea, while Ninh Binh is known for its picturesque countryside, rice paddies, and many ancient architectural landmarks. There is much else to see in Ninh Binh and I will definitely come back.
The writer provides all the photos in this article.
